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HELIOT EMIL was one of the most anticipated brands to show during this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week. Danish brothers Victor and Julius Juul explored themo-reactive fabrics, asymmetrical design, and introduced a full womenswear’s line, for their SS19 collection titled “Referential Transparency.”

The name is a reference to a complex computer programming term, which, in layman’s terms, speaks to the idea of replaceability, “the idea is that a function is replaceable by other functions” said Julius after the show. HELIOT EMIL’s SS19 collection shortened the sleeves on tops (just the left side), and cropped the pant legs (on the right) to balance it out. For the womenswear this was taken to the extreme, with high heels coming right up to the thigh on one leg, and cropped to below the ankle on the left. This effect was further enhanced with elbow-reaching gloves being worn on just one hand.

The result was an eye-catching silhouette that felt like a natural progression for HELIOT EMIL’s skewed, dark and futuristic aesthetic. Some of the show’s key pieces were the radically cropped jackets, which were strapped up diagonally across the chest and adorned with high-shine metallic carabiners to contrast against the opaque materials.

T-shirts tended to showed more flesh than hide it, being sliced diagonally below the breast bone, and styled with technical pants that rose to nearly half-way up the torso. Individually, the pieces may look a bit challenging to wear, but worn as an ensemble or with the right basics and it’s easy to see why this is one of the most hyped brands coming out of Denmark right now.

Surprisingly, one of the show’s last looks featured a tailored pewter blazer, which was styled with a chest rig (with straps going across the chest and around the back), showing how HELIOT EMIL’s contemporary can also be worn out for slightly more formal occasion should you need it.

For more from Copenhagen Fashion Week, check out our street style report from the Danish capital.


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